Silk
Silk, the queen of textiles dominates the textile industry
with its luster, sensuousness and glamour. The history of silk, goes back to
4,500 years. India is the second largest producer
of silk, contributing to about 18 per cent of the world production.
Today, silk weaving tradition in India revolves around
the sari, the ethnic traditional wear that is worn in most parts of the country.
The Indians dress themselves in elaborate and colorful silk sarees on festive
occasions. The vibrant colours, light weight, resilience and excellent
drape etc. have made silk sarees, the irresistible and unavoidable companion
of Indian women. Indian silk is popular all over the world with its
variety of designs, weaves and patterns.
Silk, one of the oldest known fibre is a protein fibre, produced
by the silkworm
for spinning around its cocoon. Five main variety of silks are available
in India namely Mulberry silk, Tasar silk, Eri silk, Muga silk and Oak Tasar
silk. These are obtained from different species of silkworms which in turn feed
on a number of food plants.
Mulberry silk, known as the commercial silk comes from
the silk worm Bombyx mori which feeds on the mulberry plant. In India,
the major mulberry silk producing states are Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh, West
Bengal, Tamil Nadu and Jammu & Kashmir.
Eri Silk, also known as the Endi or Errandi silk is
thick, warm, soft, rare and very long lasting. India is a major producer of
Eri Silk. It is grown in Assam and eastern parts of India. It is also
found in Bihar, West Bengal and Orissa. Eri silk
is produced by Philosamia ricini that feeds mainly on castor leaves.
Muga Silk, the pride of Assam is known for its natural
shimmering golden yellow colour. It is obtained from semi-domesticated
multivoltine silkworm, Antheraea assamensis. These silkworms feed on the aromatic
leaves of Som and Soalu plants. The muga silk, an high value product is used
in products like sarees, mekhalas, chaddars etc.
Oak Tasar silk : Less lustrous than mulberry silk, Tassar
silk is used mainly for furnishings and interiors. Tasar silk is generated by
the silkworm, Antheraea mylitta which mainly thrive on the food plants Asan
and Arjun. It is cultivated in the states of Jharkhand, Chattisgarh and Orissa,
besides Maharashtra, West Bengal and Andhra Pradesh.
The silk sarees of India are among the living examples of the
excellent craftsmanship of the weavers of the country. Their mastery lies in
the creation of floral designs, beautiful textures, fine geometry, durability
of such work and not the least, the vibrant colours they choose for making sarees. Many
states in the country have their own variety of makes in silk as well as weaving
centres with their traditional designs, weaving and quality. The silk varieties
are renowned by the place where it has been woven.
Banaras is one of the leading silk weaving centres in India.
Amru silk, Jamvar, Navarangi, Jamdani etc. are the types of Banaras Saris, in
which Amru Silk brocades with a heavy pallu of flowering bushes or the flowering
mango pattern are very famous. Maharashtra is famous for its Paithani Silk saris,
generally with gold dots design and Kosa
silk of Bhandara district. Patola silk, known as the pride
of Gujarat is noted for their bright colours and geometric designs with folk
motifs.
Madhya Pradesh is famous for Chanderi, Maheshwari and Tussar
silk saris. Specialty of these saris are the contrasting colours and depiction
of animal and human figures on the sarees. Silk Bomkai Sambalpuri saris
from Orissa comes in single and double ikat weaves. Murshidabad in West Bengal
is the home of the famous Baluchari sari in which untwisted silk thread are
used for weaving brocades.
In the south, heavy silk saris from Tanjore, Kumbakonam and
Kancheepuram in Tamil Nadu are known for their broad decorative borders and
contrasting colors. Kancheepuram silks has an enviable position among the
best silk sarees in the country for
their texture, luster, durability and finish. Kolegal and Molkalmoru
in Karnataka are known for their simple ikat weave with parrot motif on the
borders.
A wide range of ladies and men's wear like dupattas, sarees,
salwars, Sherwanis, caps, handkerchiefs, scarves, dhotis, turbans, shawls, ghagras
or lehengas, and even quilts, bedcovers, cushions, table-cloths curtains are
made of silk. In short, Silk has been mingled with the life and culture
of Indians.
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